The Passu Cones Expedition is a vertical journey into the heart of the Gojal region. While thousands of tourists photograph these peaks from the Karakoram Highway, very few attempt to climb them. The route involves traversing the massive Passu Glacier, navigating complex icefalls, and tackling steep granite spires. This expedition is characterized by its dramatic exposure and the constant, towering presence of Shispare and Batura Sar in the background. It is a world-class challenge for climbers looking to experience the “Cathedral” of the Karakoram.
The Iconic Skyline: Stand atop the peaks that define the visual identity of the Hunza Valley.
Passu Glacier Traverse: Navigate one of the most active and visually stunning white glaciers in Pakistan.
Technical Ascent: Engage in high-altitude rock and mixed climbing on the “Cathedral” spires.
Suspension Bridges: Cross the famous Passu and Hussaini suspension bridges, a thrilling introduction to the local terrain.
Batura Moor: Witness the confluence of the Batura and Passu glacier systems.
Travel to Karimabad or Passu Village. Spend the evening at the foot of the cones, finalizing gear and meeting the local high-altitude porters.
Start the trek from the KKH. Cross the Passu suspension bridge and hike through the dry, rugged terrain to the Yunzbin summer pastures. You will have a direct view of the Passu Glacier’s snout.
Cross the Passu Glacier. This is a “white glacier” traverse, requiring careful navigation through ice waves. Yashpirt is a beautiful green summer pasture used by the villagers of Passu for their livestock.
The ascent becomes steeper as you move towards the base of the Cathedral spires. Establish Base Camp in a safe zone away from rockfall paths.
A vital day for safety. The team will practice rope work, crevasse rescue, and test oxygen/gear levels. A short hike to 4,500m is recommended before returning to Base Camp.
Begin the technical climb. This section involves navigating the lateral moraine and moving onto the higher snow slopes of the Passu massifs.
The terrain shifts to steep snow and ice. Fixed ropes may be required for certain couloirs. Camp 2 provides a breathtaking “bird’s eye” view of the Karakoram Highway far below.
An alpine start (midnight or 1 AM). The climb to the summit involves technical rock sections and steep snow ridges. After reaching the top of the “Sun-Drenched” peak, descend carefully back to Camp 2.
A long day of descending the technical sections. The goal is to get back to the thicker air and safety of the primary Base Camp.
Retrace your steps down the mountain. The knees will feel the descent, but the oxygen-rich air at Yashpirt makes for a celebratory evening.
Final trek across the glacier and back to the road head. Drive to Karimabad for a celebratory dinner with the expedition team.
Climbing Permits: Official royalties and CKNP environmental fees.
Logistics: 4×4 Jeeps and all road transfers.
Base Camp Services: Individual tents, mess tent, kitchen equipment, and solar charging.
Expert Staff: Certified UIAGM/Local Climbing Guide and High-Altitude Porters (HAPs).
Food: High-energy expedition food, fresh vegetables at BC, and summit day snacks.
Personal Climbing Gear: Harness, boots, ice tools, and crampons.
Insurance: High-altitude mountaineering insurance (including heli-evacuation).
Personal Oxygen: (Available upon request at extra cost).
Tips: Gratuity for the climbing staff and porters.
It is a climbing peak. Unlike the Shimshal Pass trek, this requires technical mountaineering skills, including the use of fixed ropes, ice axes, and crampons.
The granite of the Passu Cones is famously jagged. Rockfall is a risk in the afternoons as the sun warms the ice between the rocks. Our guides choose routes and timing (early morning moves) to minimize this risk.
Yes. You should have experience with Grade II or III climbs and be comfortable with heights (exposure). This is not recommended for first-time climbers.
The Passu Cones are notoriously weather-dependent. While the altitude isn’t as high as the 8,000m peaks, the technicality and wind can make the summit push challenging. Expect a 60-70% success rate based on weather windows.
